The weather for the start of this trip was fantastic – hot, dry and sunny – great to be out in but absolutely no use for sailing. Not even an afternoon sea breeze as the pressure was so high (1035mb) that everything was capped and no mountain cumulus could form. For those interested, the air rises over the mountains as they heat up and is drawn from the colder sea – meaning that most sunny afternoons as the cumulus form over the hills they suck in the air and we get an increase in winds from the west. If the wind is from the east – off the land – then the sea breeze decreases it.
So we were forced to motor up the Sound of Mull but got a wee sail from Ardnamurchan light to Muck where we anchored for the night.
Foregoing a walk on that lovely island we set off, sadly again under engine, to Canna in once again sunny and blue skies and calm seas. As we approached the harbour at Canna we spotted a small group of common dolphins near the shore which soon came over to join us and play alongside the yacht. Unfortunately after a few short minutes of this excitement, a RIB (fast rubber tourist boat) came charging around the corner from the harbour and the dolphins scattered into deeper and quieter waters. Not sure how anyone who really cares about wildlife can use a RIB as a means of watching wildlife – the disturbance from the screaming engine is considerable, and the damage done by the fast turning propellers can be seen on seals, basking sharks, whales and dolphins. Travelling in excess of 30 knots they are upon the animals before they have the chance to take avoiding action. Still the Scottish Tourist Board encourages tourism numbers not wildlife conservation and these RIBs are actively encouraged.
We all had a marvellous walk on Canna; I took the high route as did Richard (a retired GP and ex- shipmate on another voyage) although he went much further on his walk than I having less jobs to do like make the dinner. The other couple – Mandy and Mike kept to the lower slopes and enjoyed exploring the cliffs and beaches.
Next day still no wind so once again the engine was started and we motored across to Loch Skiport on South Uist and again everyone enjoyed a lovely afternoon walk. Otters were spotted in the evening which was stunningly beautiful – calm with strident and crisp colours as the Sun headed fro the horizon. No long nights at this time of year but sometimes the sunset can go on for ages.
Next morning the water of the anchorage was absolutely flat calm like glass, with gossamer like mist hanging over the islands. It was quite lovely until I went outside and was attacked by myriads of midges forcing me to spend my early morning “peaceful hour” before everyone gets up in the saloon looking out of the windows! It was still nice.
Again we put on the engine, determined to shorten the distance to Kilda and motored to Leverburgh on South Harris where we anchored off the pier. Once again all ashore, the guests for showers at the Bunkhouse while I walked up into the hills to look at the lochs. Very dry indeed, we’ve had little rain here for weeks and the lochs were well below their normal level for the time of year. Returning to Gypsy, I went over to Angus Campbell’s new craft – a 53ft Catamaran called Orca III which he will use for the Kilda run. Superb vessel, with all the modern gadgetry you would expect from a modern vessel and she looked to be a more than comfortable passenger vessel.
The forecast was for strong East to North East winds – easterlies being unacceptable out at Kilda. However by the morning the wind had set firm to the North East and after a chat with Angus about the prospects I decided to depart for the archipelago a couple of hours before the tide turned south. This would moderate the seas for most of our passage and particularly for our arrival. A phone call to the base on Kilda had told us that landing was not on, but for the next day it looked good and we would hopefully be there!
As it turned out the passage was everything I hoped for – fast with a decent sea running, but unfortunately when we arrived at Hirta the prospects looked poor. There was a massive swell running in from the north east which combined with the tide to make quite severe seas outside and even into village bay. I prepped everyone to be aware we may have to leave straight away for either Barra or the Monachs – a prospect which they all viewed with some apprehension. Anyway we dropped the sails and motored into the corner near the pier where Angus’ mooring lay and picked it up. It was very rolly and uncomfortable but we turned in hoping for better conditions by the morning.
The hills were shrouded in cloud and although we could see the village itself, the rest of the panorama was hidden from view. Next morning I woke up to find the wind had veered to the East contrary to the forecast and the seas were running straight in. No alternative but to clear out and after a hurried breakfast we did exactly that and made for the Monachs where we hope for calmer conditions.
As soon as we got away from the islands the weather improved, the Sun came out and the wind was perfect for our passage although still in a direction that would have made lying in village bay quite dangerous. We had a great trip – 4.5 hours to cover the 32 miles so good speed was made all the way. When we arrived at the south anchorage at the Monachs, the seas were calm, the sun was out, the skies were blue and the stunning sandy beaches looked glorious. All ashore to explore the west island (Ceann Iar) before dinner when the decision was made to stay another day and explore the other islands of the group.
Everyone was dropped off on the east island (Ceann Ear) with the expectation of walking across to Shivinish and then Ceann Iar as the tide dropped and the sandy strands between the islnds became exposed. And all went according to plan, everyone had a great time exploring the islands, watching the multitude of birds and enjoying the antics of the hundreds of Atlantic grey seals that live there, and all in beautiful sunny weather despite a chilly northerly breeze.
Monday morning arrived and we had a reasonably early start to try and get to Castlebay on Barra before the Co-op shut to get some stores. Great passage once again and we were even kept company by a minke whale for quarter of an hour, the immense beast swimming along and in front of the yacht and all the while keeping only feet away. I tried to get a photo but was also trying to sail the yacht so this view of a big splash in front of the boat was the best I could manage.
Into Castlebay we picked up a mooring and everyone went ashore for showers while I hot-footed around to the Co-op to get essential supplies. Later I quickly walked up the local hill to get an urgent email reply off to Julie who is currently in the Azores and just walked up the 7,000ft hill Pico for the second time rather putting my effort at 1025ft to shame!
Next morning the wind was once again in the north east and we had a fast and comfortable passage across to the Gunna sound (between Coll and Tiree). We turned the corner and sailed into the south anchorage there for the night. Another yacht followed us in and were about to hit the reefs as I tried to radio a warning to them but could not make contact. At the last minute they spotted the danger and turned aside, later making a very careful and considered approach to get into the bay.
Everyone went ashore for a walk, the couple not going far, while Richard made further progress perhaps more than intended.
I went ashore after a few jobs to find a hedgehog walking along the track – odd for a nature reserve here where the majority of birds are ground nesting. I was unaware there were hedgehogs on Coll, especially after all the fuss over them when they were introduced into the Uists. I had notice traps laid here and there around the reserve last time I was there and wondered what they were for – perhaps this was the answer!
Further on I was very much looking forward to seeing the wonderful display of flowers in the dunes – masses of bloody cranesbill, ladies bedstraw, various orchids, and lots more. Disaster all to be found was almost barren grass, very few flowers but lots of sheep!! What is going on??? Is this a nature reserve or not? Run by RSPB I realise their priority is birds but to authorise introducing such a huge (and for the area concerned numbers were very high) grazing effort by sheep can only have two answers; this is part of a short term plan to reduce and reinvigorate the flora (which is OK) or total lack of concern for part of the local ecology, which is not! I shall look into this further.
After this disappointment I returned to the yacht and after an unfortunate delay we turned in for the night.
In the morning again the wind was fair – this time for a short passage across to Lunga, one of the Treshnish Island group, where we could enjoy the bird colonies there. Everyone went ashore for a few hours to see the puffins, guillemots and razorbills etc. Quite a few bonxies (great skuas) about this year.
I anchored well into the side of the bay for a bit of peace, but a small group of charter yachts (Americans on board) arrived and decided I must be in the best place and surrounded me despite the extensive alternatives all around! To cheer me up though there was the usual Mull group of bottle nosed dolphins in eth bay and they put up a great display for us all, leaping and cavorting all around.
Later we made off for Staffa for a quick look at Fingals’ cave.
I had been forced to change the plan for the next day as the forecast was for very strong easterly wind which would have given us problems along the bottom of Mull so we continued further than I originally planned and went and anchored at the head of Loch Buie for the night. As we entered the loch, the same group of dolphins came over and once again gave us a private display of high spirits!
Next day we were faced with a beat to wind to get back to the marina. Mandy and Mike were in the midst of hassles related to the final stages of buying a new home and so were keen to get back and sort out legal difficulties. Richard was also due to make a final payment on a brand new Jeanneau 37 which he was having built in France so the pressure to get back quickly was on! Result we motored back home but everyone was quite happy with that.
So another Kilda trip. By my normal rules as we didn’t make landfall it was not a success but everyone on board was happy with what we managed and if nothing else we were made very aware of the grave difficulties faced by the people who had previously made their home there. To travel out fro Leverburgh with Angus on board his super powerboat is a good way on increasing chances of getting to Kilda, but the way we did it is truly in the full spirit of the place.
Lots of dolphins were seen – common and bottle nosed, minke off Muck and the Western Isles, no basking sharks yet, not even in the Gunna sound a favourite place for seeing them Bird numbers and variety was as expected and only the flowers at Coll proved to be a real disappointment. All in all a good trip once again and thanks to my fellow sailors who made the cruise memorable for me as well.
Mike 
Amanda 
Richard
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