Cruise of the Gypsy

After lots of summers spent cruising around the Scottish islands with paid guests on board, this year of 2012 I decided to have some time to myself and so chose three weeks in June to do so. The west coast of Ireland was my first choice and I was very excited when the charts and pilot books for that area arrived through the post from Imray my suppliers.  I kept them on hold, rather like waiting to open Christmas presents but finally on one Kilda trip I pulled them out and began to plan!

As I read through the pilots I began to realise that the west coast of Ireland was very different from the lovely part of the world I live in.  Although there were plenty of nooks and crannies, loughs and harbours, they all seemed to have houses and dwellings – civilisation!!!  A quick look on Google earth confirmed my worst fears and speaking to Conan and Annie (who live aboard the yacht Hollandia and have a home in the north west of Ireland they agreed that that the area was probably not to my taste.  It looks a fine cruising area if you want to sail from harbour to harbour and enjoy the undisputed hospitality of the Irish but not for me.  I prefer isolation and watching wildlife in peace.

So Plan “B” – better make one!  Well why not cruise where I know, stay as long or as little as I like and go out in whatever weather suits me! Great – Charts etc for Ireland in the locker – none needed for where I’m going but still a full set in the chart drawer.  Fuel up (slow business just now at Dunstaffnage despite the very friendly and helpful staff) stores on board – hope to catch some fish, and away!

As might be expected no wind!! B******!!  Still principles out of the window and engine on up the sound of Mull, and into Sanna bay for the first night.  No swell - kind wind – sunny evening – lovely. There are three obvious hills above Sanna and I determined to climb them all and explore.

 Due to the rocks being from the Tertiary volcanic system that comprises the Ardnamurchan peninsula, there are loads of boiler plate granite slabs so an interesting scramble up the hills can be made by choosing the right route. Apart from my walking stick being a pain on the steeper bits it was great fun with memories of my previous passion for hard rock climbing. Recently I heard that dreaded term “wild” in reference to climbing. In this day and age playing around on climbing walls in towns and cities counts as more than training, and now you progress to “wild climbing” possibly at your peril.  Bit like “wild swimming” ie not in a swimming pool.  Lochs, rivers and the sea were all I knew in my youth but not thought of as particularly “wild” just free and available.

Back at Sanna I was surprised at how many fragrant orchids were in bloom on the hillside.  Usually uncommon rather than rare there were certainly plenty on those hills.  Bending down to sniff their beautiful perfume you are given visions of elderly and much loved Aunts with their 1950’s pomades.

The tide was due to run north in the morning till about 0730 and since once again, there was to be little wind, I got an early start at 0300.  A beautiful fresh morning and of course as bright as can be at this time of year in northerly latitudes.  I wondered at the reaction of guests if I’d suggested this time to leave, perhaps I would be surprised as most are pretty hardy.  I did manage to sail for about an hour but once more the wind died away and the engine was required.  Lots of shearwaters were flying around the boat and a few gannets could be seen diving in the distance – I was watching them through the binoculars when a glistening and dark back came into view.  Not only the gannets were feeding but also a couple of minke whales.  I stopped the yacht and watched their antics for half an hour – welcome friends back for the summer.  Hope they don’t get pestered by too many “whale watching” boats especially the fast RIBS which I think should be banned from such activities.

With the weather being so settled I took the opportunity to anchor in Tarbert Bay on Canna – usually there is too much swell from the Atlantic and it is either too uncomfortable or just downright dangerous as a place to stay.  I dropped the hook onto bright clean sand in 5 metres of water, stopped the engine and just looked. There are few places on this very planet which could be said to be more beautiful than that place at that time and I make no apologies for putting more than my usual one or two images for anyone to look at.

I turned in for a couple of hours to catch up on my lost sleep and then rowed the dinghy ashore for a walk.  I’d decided to take the outboard motor off the wee boat while I was on this trip and it was much nicer to row quietly ashore – a luxury I can’t manage when I have a full dinghy!

The sun was out, shirt off and I made a sedate pace along the sea cliff to the west.  Looking down on all the exposed reefs and at the shapes of the columns of basalt that made up the cliffs was a treat, with the lovely soft brown of the rocks contrasting with the almost black of the weed interspersed with patches of bright green seaweed and golden shades of the sand.  Rum looked magnificent in the distance capped with a brilliant white cloud set against a blue, blue sky.

I walked steadily on until I came to be above the remains of the old Nunnery.  This is on a basalt platform at the foot of very steep cliffs with an imposing very steep and narrow sheep track to negotiate to get down to it. There is also access via a loose and narrow gully; I have no idea which the Nuns preferred but certainly it would have been difficult to get to.  Apart from the solitude I suppose hiding from visiting marauders (Vikings perhaps) would have been essential.  The point on which the remains lie translates from the Gaelic into point of the “White Lady or Mother” which I presume refers to the Abbess! I’ve had some contemplative and other moments sat amongst the fallen walls of the chapel but not this time and I progressed onwards. 

The going is very good, short grass and as it is so dry this year even the muddy bits are easily negotiated. At the far end I met a group of walkers, with perhaps a guide, the man seemed very knowledgeable, I wonder if that’s how I appear when I’m out with a group?  He was considerably more respectably attired than I normally am, I probably look more like a tramp my group has befriended out of pity!  The views from the cliffs were stunning and the visibility so good that the Western Isles could be seen in great detail, despite the distance.

On the walk back they alerted me to a golden eagle which was being hassled by a hoodie and which eventually took off in the direction of Rum.  Otherwise there were few birds about – a kestrel hovering being about it apart from the usual pipits and skylarks.  Loads of rabbits though!

Back at Tarbert Bay I had been joined by another boat, a converted fishing smack, rather lovingly done up. I caught the forecast and decided to make a move across the Sea of the Hebrides and head for Loch Skiport, leaving the friendly couple on board to enjoy some solitude as I had earlier in the day. As I passed by the reefs to the south of Canna I spotted the first basking sharks I’ve seen this season, they were feeding where the incoming tide was flowing over the shallow water and concentrating the plankton.

The passage across was very quiet, I did see a large flock of gannets diving and diverting over once again found them sharing a mackerel shoal this time with a group of white beaked dolphins. This year is certainly proving to be very good for cetaceans and other wildlife.

I did see a couple of large East coast trawlers pulling the twin trawl rig behind them.  Fishermen tend to be quite nomadic but in this day and age some involvement in control of local stocks by local is surely essential.  What would a farmer in Kent say if a farmer from Sussex came along and took his crop as he’d not managed his own farm well and there was no worthwhile crops left back in Sussex. It goes right back to the early 1900’s when there was a wonderful herring fishery here in the west of Scotland, with catches made by drift netting – a technique that allows small fish to swim straight through the nets.  Done at night it was very labour intensive and whole families were involved. It’s said that when the small drift netters were in harbour you could cross from one side to the other, from boat to boat in places like Castlebay, Port Mhor (Eriskay) and Stornoway.  Then trawlers arrived from other waters and started to scoop up the fish, trawling along the sea bed and destroying the breeding grounds; within a few years the herring were gone, as was the living for very many families.

Today most of the fish are finished, the prawns (nephrops or langoustines) being the major source of income.  It might be possible for the fish to recover but nowadays the breeding areas are scoured by the most invasive and destructive means of fishing – the scallop dredger.  It is probably not possible to invent a more short termed destructive means of taking clams then dredging and yet it goes on even by local boats. As the scallops get scarcer then the fishery should become uneconomic and cease leaving the ground  to recover.  But the shortage causes the price for the product to increases and it once again becomes profitable catching the reduced amount of clams but for a much inflated price.  Should anyone in authority want to seriously left the west coast fishery recover then the first item should be to totally ban scallop dredging and the second introduce local control.  Never happen!!

Anyway, into Loch Skiport, Caolas Mor to be precise. Skiport has several pools where it is possible to anchor, one being the famous “Wizard Pool” – no idea where the name came from other than I can imagine some posh yachtie on entering this lovely anchorage, turning to his lady wife and remarking “This is absolutely wizard Doris!” and since they were probably members of the Clyde Cruising club, then the name stuck.  However it is absolutely wizard as are the rest of the sheltered pools.  The next day I was up fairly early in the hope of seeing otters (no luck) but got myself organised with salmon and horseradish sandwiches and a flask of raspberry tea and set off up Hecla the big hill that overlooks Skiport and is the second  highest hill on south Uist

 By this time there was a brisk and slightly chilly easterly breeze which got stronger as I ascended.  Keeping up a fast pace I was however grateful for the cooling effect and really enjoyed walking up the long east ridge to the summit where the views were just amazing.

It was still quite chilly, being only 12 feet short of 2000 (so not quite a Corbett) and as I looked towards Rum and Skye I could see that wispy clouds were beginning to form beneath me! 

This rather prompted a swift retreat from the summit and I plunged straight down the rocky hillside enjoying what was a more adventurous descent than the long slog up!  I managed to startle two hinds which were the only deer I saw on the hill.  The horseflies were trying to get a meal from me but I only suffered a couple of bites and there was no sign at all of midges.  Boat to boat was just under four hours including a lot of perambulating about looking at possible fishing lochs, so after a short rest on Gypsy I got the fly fishing gear together and set off back up the hill to try my luck in Loch Spotail.  Not a thing moving other than a couple of red-throated divers so after an hour I gave up and walked back home for a peaceful evening.

 Another yacht had come in and after unsuccessfully trying to anchor on the other side of the pool, came across to try next to me.  The place I normally anchor is very close to where and old fish farm used to be and the bottom is foul with old bits of chain.  I told them this and encouraged them to move elsewhere (the wizard) which they did but afterwards I did feel a bit selfish and felt I could have been more helpful.  Late on in the evening another two yachts arrived but they both successfully anchored on the other side which was good.

Next morning the forecast was all over the place so I got away with a fair tide north and when the wind freshened managed a great sail all the way to Loch Eport. Once again there were lots of gannets actively diving and feeding, and as I got closer I realised that a lot of the splashes were not from the birds but from a large group of common dolphins. There must have been upwards of a hundred feeding ferociously but they didn’t approach the yacht as is their normal behaviour –must have been too interested in the mackerel!  As I approached the entrance Mark on the motor vessel Hyalma Byorge came out.  I called him up and we compared notes on the great wildlife to be seen this season.  For anyone wanting a motor cruise he is the one I would recommend especially out to the far off isles like Kilda and North Rona which was on his agenda this trip – there was too much east in the forecast for visiting St Kilda.

Into the anchorage, anchor down, more sandwiches and herby tea and off up Eaval, this time the highest hill on north Uist!  I walked around the perimeter of Loch Obisary taking the path for a change and seeing the odd fish rise. I spotted a disturbance in the distance and quietly creeping over a small rise I found myself not twenty feet from an otter eating a huge eel!  Not moving allowed me to remain unnoticed and with the sun at my back no doubt the otter was blinded in my direction.  Anyway after some twenty minutes he finished his lunch and took off into the distance.  I was sorely tempted to get my camera out but I’m sure the movement would have spooked him, better to watch and see him leave totally unaware of my presence, very satisfying.

Meanwhile on this walk the horseflies were making themselves noticed in a big way.  As soon as I was out of the wind I was attacked but only bitten a couple of times before I reached the ridge up to the summit and a very welcome breeze.  I had my head down determined to make a good time to the summit and walked straight past a couple having lunch near to the path – I only noticed them when I was pat and looking back at the view, friendly enough though.

On the top, once again the view was stunning, Hirta, Boreray and both Stac Lee and Stac an Armin could be seen clearly in the distance.  The Monachs looked tiny, hard to believe they are such a lovely and extensive area to explore when seen from on top.  Loch Obisary, which lies at the foot of the hill  gets its name because it connects directly to the sea and on high tides the salt water flows straight into the loch resulting in a unique and complicated ecosystem  It also means not only are big trout as well as seas trout and salmon are in the loch but also sea fish such as small cod, Pollack, and even some skate!  When viewed from on high the Uists show their true character of being far more water than land with lots of shallow passages between the Atlantic and the Minch although none are navigable.

Back down I took a small diversion over the hill which overlooks the anchorage finding a couple of good scrambling bits on excellent rock before walking round a couple of the lochs looking for rising fish (None!!) and back to the yacht.  Forecast is for rain tomorrow so I decided to do a few jobs

As expected the rain has arrived and the skies darkened.  Wind is fresh but Ok for sailing however I have decided to do the varnishing and heated the yacht up to suit.  Another yacht a Westerly Riviera 38ft deck saloon arrived last evening and is also still staying here – it’s not very inviting to go outside but at least the garden will be getting watered!

Next day all changed.  I set up for the west and was making good progress through the sound of Harris and towards the west side of Lewis when with a very loud “bang!!!!” the starboard backstay fitting sheared!!  A quick tack whilst I examined the damage but after lots of thought (especially about my ruined holiday) I decided the only safe option was to return to Dunstaffnage for repairs.  The wind being favourable and not too strong, I was able to sail for Rum where I anchored overnight (as usual it was chucking it down in Loch Scresort – what a wet place that is!).  Next day home and off to get the offending article made by a local engineer – Alu-Tec of Barcaldine.

So now waiting for the 9^th July when once again we’re off on our travels around the Western Isles.  Thinking positively at least I’ve been out on my bike and got some fishing done!!

TRIP 9 St Kilda

The weather for the start of this trip was fantastic – hot, dry and sunny – great to be out in but absolutely no use for sailing.  Not even an afternoon sea breeze as the pressure was so high (1035mb) that everything was capped and no mountain cumulus could form.  For those interested, the air rises over the mountains as they heat up and is drawn from the colder sea – meaning that most sunny afternoons as the cumulus form over the hills they suck in the air and we get an increase in winds from the west.  If the wind is from the east – off the land – then the sea breeze decreases it.

So we were forced to motor up the Sound of Mull but got a wee sail from Ardnamurchan light to Muck where we anchored for the night.

Foregoing a walk on that lovely island we set off, sadly again under engine, to Canna in once again sunny and blue skies and calm seas.  As we approached the harbour at Canna we spotted a small group of common dolphins near the shore which soon came over to join us and play alongside the yacht.  Unfortunately after a few short minutes of this excitement, a RIB (fast rubber tourist boat) came charging around the corner from the harbour and the dolphins scattered into deeper and quieter waters.  Not sure how anyone who really cares about wildlife can use  a RIB as a means of watching wildlife – the disturbance from the screaming engine is considerable, and the damage done by the fast turning propellers can be seen on seals, basking sharks, whales and dolphins.  Travelling in excess of 30 knots they are upon the animals before they have the chance to take avoiding action.  Still the Scottish Tourist Board encourages tourism numbers not wildlife conservation and these RIBs are actively encouraged.

We all had a marvellous walk on Canna; I took the high route as did Richard (a retired GP and  ex- shipmate on another voyage) although he went much further on his walk than I having less jobs to do like make the dinner.  The other couple – Mandy and Mike kept to the lower slopes and enjoyed exploring the cliffs and beaches.

Next day still no wind so once again the engine was started and we motored across to Loch Skiport on South Uist and again everyone enjoyed a lovely afternoon walk.  Otters were spotted in the evening which was stunningly beautiful – calm with strident and crisp colours as the Sun headed fro the horizon.  No long nights at this time of year but sometimes the sunset can go on for ages.

Next morning the water of the anchorage was absolutely flat calm like glass, with gossamer like mist hanging over the islands. It was quite lovely until I went outside and was attacked by myriads of midges forcing me to spend my early morning “peaceful hour” before everyone gets up in the saloon looking out of the windows!  It was still nice.

Again we put on the engine, determined to shorten the distance to Kilda and motored to Leverburgh on South Harris where we anchored off the pier.  Once again all ashore, the guests for showers at the Bunkhouse while I walked up into the hills to look at the lochs.  Very dry indeed, we’ve had little rain here for weeks and the lochs were well below their normal level for the time of year. Returning to Gypsy, I went over to Angus Campbell’s new craft – a 53ft Catamaran called Orca III which he will use for the Kilda run.  Superb vessel, with all the modern gadgetry you would expect from a modern vessel and she looked to be a more than comfortable passenger vessel.

The forecast was for strong East to North East winds – easterlies being unacceptable out at Kilda.  However by the morning the wind had set firm to the North East and after a chat with Angus about the prospects I decided to depart for the archipelago a couple of hours before the tide turned south.  This would moderate the seas for most of our passage and particularly for our arrival.  A phone call to the base on Kilda had told us that landing was not on, but for the next day it looked good and we would hopefully be there!

As it turned out the passage was everything I hoped for – fast with a decent sea running, but unfortunately when we arrived at Hirta the prospects looked poor.  There was a massive swell running in from the north east which combined with the tide to make quite severe seas outside and even into village bay.  I prepped everyone to be aware we may have to leave straight away for either Barra or the Monachs – a prospect which they all viewed with some apprehension.  Anyway we dropped the sails and motored into the corner near the pier where Angus’  mooring lay and picked it up.  It was very rolly and uncomfortable but we turned in  hoping for better conditions by the morning.

 The hills were shrouded in cloud and although we could see the village itself, the rest of the panorama was hidden from view.  Next morning I woke up to find the wind had veered to the East contrary to the forecast and the seas were running straight in.  No alternative but to clear out and after a hurried breakfast we did exactly that and made for the Monachs where we hope for calmer conditions. 

 As soon as we got away from the islands the weather improved, the Sun came out and the wind was perfect for our passage although still in a direction that would have made lying in village bay quite dangerous.  We had a great trip – 4.5 hours to cover the 32 miles so good speed was made all the way.  When we arrived at the south anchorage at the Monachs, the seas were calm, the sun was out, the skies were blue and the stunning sandy beaches looked glorious.  All ashore to explore the west island (Ceann Iar) before dinner when the decision was made to stay another day and explore the other islands of the group.

Everyone was dropped off on the east island (Ceann  Ear) with the expectation of walking across to Shivinish and then Ceann Iar as the tide dropped and the sandy strands between the islnds became exposed.  And all went according to plan, everyone had a great time exploring the islands, watching the multitude of birds and enjoying the antics of the hundreds of Atlantic grey seals that live there, and all in beautiful sunny weather despite a chilly northerly breeze.

Monday morning arrived and we had a reasonably early start to try and get to Castlebay on Barra before the Co-op shut to get some stores.  Great passage once again and we were even kept company by a minke whale for quarter of an hour, the immense beast swimming along and in front of the yacht and all the while  keeping only feet away.  I tried to get a photo but was also trying to sail the yacht so this view of a big splash in front of the boat was the best I could manage.

Into Castlebay we picked up a mooring and everyone went ashore for showers while I hot-footed around to the Co-op to get essential supplies.  Later I quickly walked up the local hill to get an urgent email reply off to Julie who is currently in the Azores and just walked up the 7,000ft hill Pico for the second time rather putting my effort at 1025ft to shame!

Next morning the wind was once again in the north east and we had a fast and comfortable passage across to the Gunna sound (between Coll and Tiree).  We turned the corner and sailed into the south anchorage there for the night.  Another yacht followed us in and were about to hit the reefs as I tried to radio a warning to them but could not make contact.  At the last minute they spotted the danger and turned aside, later making a very careful and considered approach to get into the bay.

Everyone went ashore for a walk, the couple not going far, while Richard made further progress perhaps more than intended.

I went ashore after a few jobs to find a hedgehog walking along the track – odd for a nature reserve here where the majority of birds are ground nesting.  I was unaware there were hedgehogs on Coll, especially after all the fuss over them when they were introduced into the Uists.  I had notice traps laid here and there around the reserve last time I was there and wondered what they were for – perhaps this was the answer!

Further on I was very much looking forward to seeing the wonderful display of flowers in the dunes – masses of bloody cranesbill, ladies bedstraw, various orchids, and lots more.  Disaster all to be found was almost barren grass, very few flowers but lots of sheep!!  What is going on???  Is this a nature reserve or not?  Run by RSPB I realise their priority is birds but to authorise introducing such a huge (and for the area concerned numbers were very high) grazing effort by sheep can only have two answers;  this is part of a short term plan to reduce and reinvigorate the flora (which is OK) or total lack of concern for part of the local ecology, which is not!  I shall look into this further.

After this disappointment I returned to the yacht and after an unfortunate delay we turned in for the night.

In the morning again the wind was fair – this time for a short passage across to Lunga, one of the Treshnish Island group, where we could enjoy the bird colonies there.  Everyone went ashore for a few hours to see the puffins, guillemots and razorbills etc.  Quite a few bonxies (great skuas) about this year.

I anchored well into the side of the bay for a bit of peace, but a small group of charter yachts (Americans on board) arrived and decided I must be in the best place and surrounded me despite the extensive alternatives all around!   To cheer me up though there was the usual Mull group of bottle nosed dolphins in eth bay and they put up a great display for us all, leaping and cavorting all around.

Later we made off for Staffa for a quick look at Fingals’ cave.

 I had been forced to change the plan for the next day as the forecast was for very strong easterly wind which would have given us problems along the bottom of Mull so we continued further than I originally planned and went and anchored at the head of Loch Buie for the night.  As we entered the loch, the same group of dolphins came over and once again gave us a private display of high spirits!

Next day we were faced with a beat to wind to get back to the marina.  Mandy and Mike were in the midst of hassles related to the final stages of buying a new home and so were keen to get back and sort out legal difficulties.  Richard was also due to make a final payment on a brand new Jeanneau 37 which he was having built in France so the pressure to get back quickly was on!  Result we motored  back home but everyone was quite happy with that.

So another Kilda trip.  By my normal rules as we didn’t make landfall it was not a success but everyone on board was happy with what we managed and if nothing else we were made very aware of the grave difficulties faced by the people who had previously made their home there.  To travel out fro Leverburgh with Angus on board his super powerboat is a good way on increasing chances of getting to Kilda, but the way we did it is truly in the full spirit of the place.

Lots of dolphins were seen – common and bottle nosed, minke off Muck and the Western Isles, no basking sharks yet, not even in the Gunna sound a favourite place for seeing them  Bird numbers and variety was as expected and only the flowers at Coll proved to be a real disappointment.  All in all a good trip once again and thanks to my fellow sailors who made the cruise memorable for me as well.

Mike

Amanda

Richard

 

Trip no. 6 - Western Isles and St Kilda

Blog Trip 6

The intention; towards St Kilda – the weather – uncertain!

We set off from Dunstaffnage with just two guests on board – Karen, who had done some training with me last year, a Doctor from Edinburgh; and Vince, a retired Teacher from Cumbria, close to where I was originally brought up.  Both had some sailing experience. Vince had achieved one of my life ambitions by walking the pilgrim way from central France to Santiago de Campostela in northern Spain: the famous “Shell” route.  He even ended up at Cape Finisterre where he took the traditional option of burning his clothes before taking adip in the sea! Quite an achievement which due to my old injuries which prevent me walking such distances, I shall never be able to emulate.

The first day we ended up in Muck for a short walk and then had to wait for some wind to lift us to our next destination – Canna. As we approached the anchorage in quite fresh winds we were joined by a squad of probably two hundred common dolphins who kept us company for some time; groups would come in and play alongside the boat, veer off, and then another dozen or so would shoot across to join us.  What a start to a trip!!

What the dolphins were doing there is uncertain as I’m quite sure that there was no large shoal of fish in the area, very early for mackerel and despite a few gannets being in the area – no sign of feeding activity from them either.

We over-nighted at Canna and the headed north on a pleasant reach in good winds.  Not a sign of another yacht anywhere until we were almost across when we spotted a ketch making way from Skye to the Outer Isles. Deciding to anchor in Loch Eport and get a decent isobaric chart from the internet, I was aware from a Notice to Mariners (issued by the Hydrographic chart office) of a recent addition of yet another fish farm to the area.  However I was surprised at the position, right in the middle of the passage and the extensive size of the place.  Although they do provide local employment, the effect on the environment is now becoming out of control in the search for economic development.  Some years ago a farm of this size would have employed perhaps 15 or 20 locals to do the feeding and general husbandry duties.  Nowadays with automation a team of perhaps three people will service a couple of these farms without much trouble. As can be seen below the food and fish are now transported by large support vessels, foreign owned and crewed and in fact most of the fish farming operations are held in similar foreign hands. Not really what is meant by local sustainable business – what happened to the native salmon and sea trout stocks is a disgrace and far more jobs have been lost in the hotel industry by the loss of leisure fishing than have been created by the Fish farming explosion.  A small number of people benefit but the loss to the greater community is high and may have significant further impact on the environment, habitat and people as it progresses at a pace which seems to be out of control. We may regret it.

It was at this stage that we began to realise that unfortunately the weather pattern was going to prevent a visit to St Kilda.  The forecast was for pretty strong NE winds, not nice out in the part of the Atlantic where St Kilda lies, and then a full gale by the middle of the weekend. So we opted to stay on the east side of the Western Isles and after a walk up the hill at Eport we headed for Loch Skiport for the next night.  From there to Castlebay on Barra where we had a great meal at the very friendly Kisimul café before getting an early start on Saturday morning and going to Mingulay and Berneray (Barra Head)  before the promised big winds arrived.  As we approached Mingulay beach in the early morning it was apparent that there was a large gathering of Atlantic grey seals on the beach – on fact more than I have ever seen there before.

They were covering the beach from one side to the other to a depth of four or five seals!! There must have been upwards of two thousand – many more than I’ve seen there before.  The day was perfect for a visit and we were the only people there for most of the morning before the wee day boat arrived from Castle bay with a dozen visitors.  We were fortunate to be so early and  it was great to be there as cloudless blue skies, light winds and the Sun combined to make a lovely warm day on the island.  We walked up the to top of the cliffs for a look and enjoyed seeing the fulmars, guillemots and razorbills playing in the updrafts created by the steady breeze off the Atlantic.

 

Karen was busy photographing flora while Saltwater Gypsy lay below in the bay.  I left Vince and Karen looking at the birds and strolling around while I went along the cliffs for a short while, being hassled by usual bonxies who were preparing to nest in the area.  I went down to the beautiful sunlit sandy bay and back to the boat, getting some nice images of SG on the way!

We went across to Berneray after lunch, in a bit of a hurry as the wind was rapidly rising and the anchorage was becoming somewhat uncomfortable. Still we got ashore and a quick scoot up the hill took us to Barra Head lighthouse; Vince was very interested in the remains of the Neolithic fort that forms part of the walls of the lighthouse.

Back at the yacht I was grateful to get away as by now the Severe gale force 9 gale was imminent and I was keen to get into Vatersay bay, a sheltered haven to allow us to ride out the winds in safety. We anchored in the east bay with plenty of chain out and the mizzen sail deployed as a steadying sail.  The wind gradually increased until by dark we were getting a constant 40knots plus (upper force 8). By morning it had freshened further and we had gusts up to 53knot to entertain us.

We stayed on anchor for all of Sunday and when it came time to make the dinner I was in for a big surprise! 

Dinner was to be vegetarian haggis, neaps and tatties, a particular favourite of mine, and Karen seemed keen to know what make of haggis I had prepared.  “MacSweens” – by far the best I told her and it rapidly occurred to me that she was a MacSween herself.  To my delight it transpired that it was her family business that made the veggie haggis and she had helped her father with the recipe some years before, sampling the various options as it was developed:

Next day we were keen to get going and crossed over the Sea of the Hebrides in nice sailing winds giving us a very broad reach, but as we cleared Barra Head we came under the influence of the swell from the previous day’s gale. Some of the waves were quite impressive and as we passed the “Rebecca” a Frazerburgh registered fishing trawler it became apparent just how big they were.

After a fast and very enjoyable passage we passed through the Sound of Gunna and anchored in a small bay on Coll for the night.  Everyone was quite tired (and it was raining on and off, which usually deters me) so we delayed going ashore until the next morning when the Sun was out and the wind had eased but it was bitterly cold.

It was a lovely walk and several corncrakes were heard but not seen – the flowers for which Coll is famous were not yet on the go however their were a lot of green plover, hares going mad all over the place and a large flock of dunlin feeding in the fields.

We went across towards the Treshnish Isles the next day but there was too much swell to let us land on Lunga to visit the puffins there and we continued further to stay at Ulva for the night.  Next day we did manage to get ashore and see the wonderful bird colony on Lunga before heading south and stopping overnight on the Ross of Mull.  From there to Loch Spelve (we had fresh mussels for starters) and eventually the next day home to Dunstaffnage and the end of the trip.

Shame about St Kilda but the trip had been very enjoyable. The weather is so critical to a successful visit – I do recommend that anyone who has making St Kilda as the sole reason for voyaging to go with Angus Campbell on his speedboat from Leverburgh! Going under sail is the “real” way to go but the uncertainty is not always acceptable to some people.

This early in the season you can’t expect to see much in the way of wildlife and the flora simply hasn’t had the warmth needed to get going.  However we did see some wonderful stuff – the common dolphins being particularly exciting.

Now I’m busy doing some private training for the crew of the Islay/Jura ferry on board the yacht and as you might expect the weather is great while I’m stuck teaching theory rather than out there doing some sailing! Still its well early in the season and I am sure there are great times ahead!!